How much mulch do you need to put around your plants? Since the idea is to create a blanket, use the soil as a gauge — if you can see soil, you need more mulch. For most plants, a layer of 2 to 4 in. is deep enough.

MULCHING AROUND PERENNIALS — Spread mulch completely around a plant so all the roots can benefit. Just be sure to keep it at least an inch away from the stem and leaves. Mulch placed too closely to a plant will limit air circulation and create an environment where insects and diseases can flourish.

For plants that have a low-growing or mounding habit, like the coral bells you see above right, you can mulch around the outermost leaves. These act as a self-mulch, keeping the soil cool under the plant and helping to conserve moisture.

MULCHING AROUND TREES — Mulch helps trees most if it extends to the dripline. You can find the dripline by drawing an imaginary line from the outermost leaves on the tree to the ground. That’s a gauge of how far the roots extend on the plant. Be sure to keep mulch at least an inch away from the trunk, as well. Newly planted trees benefit the most from mulch because their roots haven’t grown enough to get water and nutrients from deep in the soil.

problem solver

Maple leaf scorch

IDENTIFICATION — If your maple looks like someone used a torch on the leaves — especially near the top and on the southern side — your tree is probably suffering from leaf scorch, a direct result of dry summer heat. Trees transpire, like we do when we sweat, and if they lose more water than the roots can absorb, the leaves may scorch.

CONTROL — You’ll need to do some extra watering. Focus most of the water in the area directly beneath the outer tips of the branches, since that’s where the fine roots that absorb water quickly are located. Set a sprinkler and let it run until a coffee can placed in the area measures an inch of water. Do this once a week until the tree goes dormant. If it rains, you can reduce the amount of water. The damaged leaves will not recover, but next year the tree will be fine, if there is adequate moisture.

problem solver

Heat stress symptoms

Summer heat can be as damaging as winter cold. Here are some symptoms of heat-stress damage and some strategies for surviving the summer.

WILTING AND STUNTED GROWTH — Plants that exhibit these symptoms, such as fuchsia, are in need of water and shade. If a plant is exposed to prolonged periods of heat stress, the new growth will be smaller than the old and eventually the root system will shut down.

DROOPING OR ROLLED FOLIAGE — Another mechanism plants employ to protect themselves from heat is to roll their leaves and let them droop. Commonly seen on rhododendrons, this allows the plant to reduce its leaf surface area that is exposed to the sun. If left under these conditions for a long time the plant will eventually die.

To prevent these types of heat stress, place plants appropriately in your garden. If you have plants that are sensitive to summer heat, put them in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade, like an eastern exposure. This placement is also good for plants that suffer leaf scorch, like hosta.

Keep plants well mulched; organic mulch shades root systems and retains soil moisture. Rock mulches tend to add heat to the root zone and don’t conserve moisture as well. Also keep plants well watered. Using drip-irrigation lines can increase moisture without requiring you to stand out in the heat.

problem solver

Frost crack

IDENTIFICATION – Frost cracks occur in trees during winter when the sun heats the sap enough to cause it to flow through the trunk. But when nighttime temperatures drop quickly, the sap freezes in the trunk. Like water freezing, the sap expands and cracks the bark, which can provide an entry point for pathogens.

FAVORITE CONDITIONS – Frost cracks are more likely to occur on the sunniest side of the tree. Typically only young trees or those with thin bark, such as young maples and crabapples, are affected. Older trees have thicker bark that insulates the sap from the solar heating.

CONTROL – The best way to prevent frost cracking is to wrap the trunks of susceptible trees. In late fall or early winter, wrap the trunk with a light-colored paper or fabric wrap. These wraps are available at garden centers and nurseries. You want the wrap to be light colored to reflect the sunlight, not absorb it. In the spring when temperatures have warmed again, remove the wrap to prevent insects from making their home under it.

Trees can live normal lives with frost crack damage. In the spring following the damage, the tree will begin to grow callus wood over the edge of the crack. If the bark around the crack is jagged and rough, you can smooth the area to help the tree recover. Take a sharp knife or razor blade and cut away the jagged or loose bark. Be careful not to cut into the wood underneath the bark. It’s not necessary to tape or paint over the wound — these won’t help the tree recover from the damage. The callus wood will guard the rest of the tree from possible infection. The crack will likely never close up again, but the tree will be protected.

white ash
fraxinus americana

More than just a fast-growing tree (1 to 2 feet per year), white ash has a lot of other things going for it: Flexible and strong wood that won’t break easily in a storm; thin leaves that break down quickly if you don’t get them raked, and finally, leaves that drop early to let lots of autumn sunlight into your windows. But I think the fall color, like Autumn Purple™, left, is enough to recommend this tree. Other colorful cultivars are ‘Rosehill’, ‘Autumn Blaze’ and Windy City™. All four of these white ashes are male trees, so you don’t have to worry about seeds. That means that later there won’t be white ash trees sprouting everywhere.

All ash trees are susceptible to the emerald ash borer. Before planting an ash tree, consult with your extension services or state forestry department to see if ash is a wise selection for your area.

TYPE Tree SIZE 60 ft. tall by 40 ft. wide BLOOM Insignificant LIGHT Full sun SOIL Rich PESTS Emerald ash borer; occasional scale HARDINESS Cold: USDA zones 3 to 9 Heat: AHS zones 9 to 1

Christmas is over and it’s time to take down the tree. You could just throw it away, but why not recycle it and use it out in the garden?

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Even the hardiest trees and shrubs need a little help when they’re living in containers. Roots get colder and dry out more quickly when they’re surrounded by such a small amount of soil. Containers are also vulnerable to freezing and could crack as the soil inside expands. To prevent this, once you’ve wrapped up your container, you might move it into your garage and raise it on a brick or two.

Step one — Wrap the container with a couple layers of insulation, such as this bubble wrap — its air cells are great insulators. Burlap or even an old quilt will do, too.

Step two — Drape the branches with burlap. This fabric helps to cut the drying effects of harsh winter winds and protects the bark against uneven warming, which can cause sunscald. Secure the burlap with twine in a spiral from top to bottom. The twine shouldn’t squeeze the branches too tightly — just enough to hold the burlap in place.

live christmas trees

Let’s face it: the saddest part of the holidays is when you take down the Christmas tree. But it doesn’t have to be that way! For a few dollars more than the cost of a fresh-cut tree, you can buy a live evergreen — either container grown or balled and burlapped — and plant it in your garden after the holidays. It’s a great way to remember a special Christmas, such as the first in a new home or with a newborn baby.

Buy right
Select a smaller tree because it will be cheaper, easier to move and plant. Run your hands through the needles. If any drop off, find another tree. Make sure the root ball is solid, free of cracks and doesn’t move independently of the stem.

Care and setup
Live Christmas trees dry out quickly indoors; plan to keep one in your home no longer than three days. Or, you can extend the time to up to 10 days with a few simple steps. Before you bring the tree in, spray the foliage with an antidesiccant, such as Wilt-Pruf, and let it dry. Then, try to find a cool spot in the house for the tree — perhaps an entryway, sun room or other room with a lot of glass — and keep the thermostat at 66 degrees or lower. Place the tree in a pot or on a tray, water the root ball daily and keep the root ball covered with plastic. Keep the tree away from fireplaces, radiators and heat ducts. Also, use a room humidifier, if you have one.

Planting
If the ground will be frozen by late December, pre-dig a hole outside and store the soil in the garage. The hole should be just as deep and twice as wide as the root ball. At planting time, position the tree and backfill with soil. Add water and tamp soil to remove any air pockets. Cover the ground with mulch and double wrap the tree with burlap to protect the foliage from drying winds the first winter.

Winter means snow in many areas of North America. And the weight of snow on the branches can damage trees and shrubs. Should you shake it off or leave it alone? We’ll help you determine what’s best for your plants.

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plants deer avoid

While there’s no such thing as a deer-proof plant, there are definitely ones that deer don’t crave. Generally, they shun plants with fuzzy, tomentose foliage or ones with lemon, sage or spicy flavors. The plants below are some of deer’s least favorites.

Bulbs
Allium Allium spp.
Autumn crocus Colchicum spp.
Daffodil Narcissus spp.
Fritillaria Fritillaria spp.
Grape hyacinth Muscari spp.
Squill Scilla spp.

Perennials
Adam’s needle Yucca filamentosa
Agastache Agastache spp.
Blue cardinal flower Lobelia siphilitica
Catmint Nepeta xfaassenii
Foxglove Digitalis spp.
Speedwell Veronica spp.

Annuals
Angel’s trumpet Brugmansia spp.
Canna Canna spp.
Forget-me-not Myosotis spp.
Firecracker plant Cuphea ignea
Heliotrope Heliotropium arborescens
Larkspur Consolida ajacis

Trees, shrubs and vines
Butterfly bush Buddleja davidii
Clematis Clematis paniculata
Dwarf Norway spruce Picea abies
European white birch Betula pendula
Holly Ilex spp. (except thornless varieties)
Honeysuckle Lonicera spp.

Give your trees
a checkup

Late winter and early spring are the best times to prune trees. Look for problems now so you can plan to have them taken care of. There are two things you should be aware of when deciding if a tree needs attention: The health of the tree, and whether or not there’s a “target” that it would hit if it fell.

First, does the tree have lots of dead branches? Is there serious damage to the trunk between the ground and the first live branch? Damage might be rot, large wounds, splitting bark or narrow forks in the tree.

Second, what would the tree hit if all or part of it fell? A damaged tree that could hit your house or a neighbor’s house is a hazard. Damaged trees close to where you or others spend time should be your top priority.

If you’re still unsure which trees need attention, local tree service companies can help you assess the trees on your lot. You should get this checked out now, before you start to think about additions to the house or other landscaping projects. It’s always a good idea to get a couple of estimates. And keep in mind that topping, or cutting back main branches to stubs, is never a good way to renovate a tree – if a tree service recommends this approach, get another opinion.

On sunny winter days, the bark of young trees can develop frost cracks. It’s a good idea to protect them by wrapping their trunks in fall with some white tree wrap.

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To protect your trees order white tree wrap.

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