Click on the photo for this container plan.

jack-o-planter

Nothing says “fall” like a pumpkin, so what could be more perfect to use for a fall container? If you’d like to make one of your own, here are a few things you need to do to make your pumpkin planter last.

To keep your pumpkin looking good for as long as possible, don’t plant directly into it. Instead, plant up a plastic nursery pot and slide it into the pumpkin. Take an 8-in. plastic pot along when you chose your pumpkin to be sure it will fit.

Once you’ve got your pumpkin, cut an opening in the top large enough for the pot to slip through. Scoop out the insides and cut a 1-in. drainage hole in the bottom. Then seal the pumpkin by spraying the inside with Wilt-Pruf^®, especially the area around the hole. This will help keep it from rotting. Now you’re ready to plant.

These kales, pansies and cape daisies all do well in cool fall temperatures. First, place a little potting mix in the bottom of the pot. Most pumpkins won’t hold a very big pot, so to fit in as many plants as possible, flatten each root ball before you tuck it in, then fill in any spaces with more mix. Once everything is planted, water the pot and let it drain completely before you place it in the pumpkin.

Click on the photo for this container plan.

deck railing
razzle-dazzle

Here’s a deck planting that really makes a great first impression. Garden Gate reader, Jennifer VanWagner, sent us photos of her deck railing container and we made it one of the featured designs in this year’s Container Challenge.

Tough and reliable annuals, such as geranium, licorice plant, lantana and calibrachoa, mean this exuberant planting doesn’t need any fuss. Click on the photo for the plan and plant list.

A self-watering container helps keep it looking good, too. Once the reservoir is full, plants have easy access to water for several days, which cuts down on garden chores. But you may still need to water daily during particularly long hot spells. The container on the railing is 9 in. wide and 39 in. long and is watered through a fill tube. You can get your own from a local garden center or from Gardener’s Supply at 888-833-1412.

Have a great container design? Take a photo and enter our Container Challenge!

Check out the four bonus container plans from the current issue at lower right.

Click on the photo for the container plan.

There’s more to beautiful containers than just the right planting and care. Design plays a role, too. Take this traditional container design, consisting of three types of plants: Tall spikes, lush fillers, and long trailers. No matter what size or shape your pot, this no-fail formula is sure to produce results!

AIM HIGH — The first type of plant that you’ll need is a spike. A “spike” could be an actual spike plant (these plants are found in the Cordyline or Dracaena families and are often just labeled “spike”), but it could also be any plant that adds height to your container. In the photo at right, that’s the snake plant. Ornamental grasses, New Zealand flax and tall snapdragons also make great spikes. A spike often functions as a focal point or attention-grabber, but it doesn’t have to. It can also provide a backdrop for a lovely filler.

As you build your container, play around with the position of the spike, as you see in the illustrations. Place it either in the center, with the other plants forming a ring around it, or toward the back of the pot, where it creates a sort of backdrop. For a twist, place the spike off to one side, and let fillers take over the other side.

MIDDLE MAGIC — Fillers are shorter than the spike and taller than the trailers and are vital to the container’s success. Fillers can play any role you’d like: Supporting actor to the star spike, or show-stopping diva. For a supporting role, make sure you choose fillers that have colors that complement the spike and foliage or flowers that don’t compete with it. If you want the diva, then look for lush, bold flowers like the yellow begonias in the photo, or brightly colored or variegated foliage. The most successful fillers have mounding or bushy habits, like lantana or impatiens. You can also look for spiky plants that stay small, like grape hyacinths, blue fescue or short snapdragons.

THE TRAILERS — Last, but certainly not least, are the trailers. These low-growers spill over the edge of the container and run along the sides, like the English ivy in the photo does. They help create a visual bridge between your pot and the rest of the planting.

With trailers, aim to keep it simple. Choose just one or two types of plants for the most impact. Plant the trailers right at the edge of your container. They can go all the way around the pot, or just spill over in one or two particular spots. For fuller, bushier plants, like bacopa, don’t be afraid to tilt them toward the rim when you plant them. You’ll get more edge coverage that way, and you’ll see more of the plant. By the middle of summer, don’t worry if you have to cut back or even pull out a trailer that’s taking over the container.

For more great tips on containers, get your copy of Containers Made Easy at right!

butterfly container garden

Want to bring in the butterflies? Create a garden using plants they love. The butterflies will flock to the “buffet” selection of flowers. And you’ll like the fact that many of the plants are easy-care, long-blooming perennials. Most any yard has a spot where you can tuck in a butterfly bed. If yours doesn’t, or you already have a big butterfly garden, but you’d like to draw a few winged visitors closer to the deck or patio, containers are the solution. That way you’ll be able to watch them up close and personal.

While butterflies will visit almost any flower looking for food, they are more attracted to some plants. Those are the ones to use in a container. You’ll want to choose flowers that have lots of nectar, a butterfly’s favorite food. That’s why we’ve included aster, lantana, purple coneflower and black-eyed Susan. Add a canna in the center for some height and bold texture. This guarantees your container will look good to both you and hungry butterflies!

Check out the plant list and planting plan for this container in our Web extra!

colander hang-ups

Don’t toss that old aluminum colander — turn it into a unique hanging basket.

Choose three holes nearest the colander rim that are equal distance apart. Tie the end of a length of wire to each hole and gather the other ends of the three wires and twist them together to form a hook. Be sure that the colander hangs level.

For a little extra color, rub the outside with a little fine sandpaper and spray on a coat or two of exterior paint. Fill the colander with a coarse potting mix and plant with small succulents or herbs that like well-drained soil conditions.

For more great container ideas, check out the softcover book Containers Made Easy! at right.

using containers in borders

Containers aren’t just for porches, patios and decks — you can also put them in your perennial borders. Here are some tips to help you decide where to place the containers.

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX — The soil often dictates which plants you grow in your garden, but if you want to grow something that doesn’t work, try a container. For example, you can plant a container of succulents and place it among moisture-loving plants. You can also move houseplants outside in summer and place them among perennials.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT — In narrow areas, like along the side of a driveway, sidewalk or side of the house, hang baskets of colorful annuals to add height to a planting that might otherwise be too low. Place several shepherd’s hooks in the bed — the repetition will give the bed a sense of unity.

If you like to plant in large containers, you know that filling one with potting mix can be expensive. Check out these helpful tips for saving both mix and money.

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design a container with dwarf perennials

Small-stature perennials are easily incorporated into almost any garden, but their petite size makes them ideal for use in containers.

Select perennials just as you would for any other combination; pick an upright or spiky plant, one that drapes over the edge and a filler in between. Perennials and annuals can be combined for the right look in a container; just be sure that the cultural requirements are compatible. Here 16-in.-tall ‘Kim’s Knee High’ coneflower, ‘Little Bunny’ fountain grass and any colorful coleus are just right in this 20-in.-diameter pot. (You’ll need to pinch the coleus regularly to keep it small.) There’s even room left for a bit of moneywort to spill over the edge.

Later in the season, plant the perennials in your garden and enjoy them there next year. Or lift them again and replant in another container.

Even the hardiest trees and shrubs need a little help when they’re living in containers. Roots get colder and dry out more quickly when they’re surrounded by such a small amount of soil. Containers are also vulnerable to freezing and could crack as the soil inside expands. To prevent this, once you’ve wrapped up your container, you might move it into your garage and raise it on a brick or two.

Step one — Wrap the container with a couple layers of insulation, such as this bubble wrap — its air cells are great insulators. Burlap or even an old quilt will do, too.

Step two — Drape the branches with burlap. This fabric helps to cut the drying effects of harsh winter winds and protects the bark against uneven warming, which can cause sunscald. Secure the burlap with twine in a spiral from top to bottom. The twine shouldn’t squeeze the branches too tightly — just enough to hold the burlap in place.

starflower
pentas lanceolata

Once starflower starts to bloom, nothing stops it until frost. Like many butterfly plants, this one prefers, in fact needs, heat to bloom its best. So there’s no point setting it out into your garden until all danger of frost is past.

If you have limited space for your butterfly garden, maybe only room for a container or two, plant starflower in those containers. Prune it back if it starts to get too big — it’ll bloom again in just a few weeks. You won’t need to worry about keeping this plant tidy. The spent flowers turn green rather than brown so you may not even notice them against the foliage. And later the heads drop off all by themselves.

TYPE Annual SIZE 15 to 18 in. tall by 18 in. wide BLOOM Pink, red or white in summer LIGHT Full sun SOIL Well drained PESTS Occasional aphids and spider mites HARDINESS Cold: USDA zone 12 (treat as an annual elsewhere) Heat: AHS zones 12 to 1

If you live where it’s hot and dry, you’re probably spending lots of time watering, especially if you have containers. Here are some tips and a tool to help make that task easier and more enjoyable.

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hosta ‘june’

You’ll never get bored with this beautiful hosta. Leaf centers are chartreuse in spring then change to a creamy yellow by summer. The color varies depending on the amount of light available — you’ll get the best color by growing ‘June’ in morning sun and afternoon shade. And those beautiful leaves are thick, so slugs go looking elsewhere for dinner. With its smaller size, ‘June’ is an excellent choice to grow in containers. And it’s quick to multiply, so you’ll be able to divide it into more plants.

TYPE Perennial SIZE 15 in. tall by 30 in. wide BLOOM White in midsummer
LIGHT 4 to 5 hours of shade SOIL Well drained PESTS Occasional slugs